Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Fortresses and Fairy Tales, Part 1

Today we had a special day visiting the fortified fortresses around Sightisoara in Transylvania. One of Romania's highlights is the fortified churches in the rolling hills of Transylvania, from Sighisoara to Brasov. We tackled them over two days, by hiring a private driver to take us to the locations. Normally, we would have just booked tours and taken mass transit, but the tours were all booked, and many museums are closed on Mondays, and since we only had Sunday and Monday to visit them all, we had to be strategic about our travels.
On Sunday, we visited the town of Biertan and Visci. On Monday, en route to Brasoc, we stopped at Rupea, Bran Castle and Rosov Fortress.

Viscri, nestled in buttery-soft hills, was very rustic with powder blue shuttered houses and little old ladies knitting socks on doorstops while little gypsy children played with their horses. The livestock wander the street, as we had a show of turkies doing the tango dance as I entered the castle. It is also one of the most preserved Saxon villages in Romaina with their adorable, brightly colored houses, and red terra coat roofs. Attached to the church is a dark tower, with a creaking staircase, that we climbed up regardless, all 4 levels. It was fascinating reading about how much influence and control the Saxons had in this region considering the Romainian people asked them to come in and protect them from the Hungarians to the north and the Turks to the South in the 1400's.

Biertan's medieval church is unforgettable as you approach town as it appears over the town square cluttered with the traditionally Saxon vividly paints houses and backed by vinyards and tussocks meadows. We were fortunate to have perfect weather which added to the experience. The 15th century church was the seat of the Lutheran bishop from 1572-1867. Near the alter is a formidable door with a lock, which are 19 locks in one-you would have thought it was the South Bronx! Ironically, it won first place at the 1889 World's Fair in Paris for engineering. Most impressive were the were the original fortified walls from the 14c.
Inside the walls, there are many buildings, but one in particular has an interesting history- the small bastion. According to local lore, couples wanting a divorce were supposedly locked up in here, together, for two weeks as a last attempt to resolve differences. There was only one bed and one set of cutlery. The method was so successful that only one coupIe the past 400 years has decided to go through with divorce. Hmm, I can think of some people for this room....

Viscri, white church

Views from the towers
Can see the town of Viscri below

Biertan
Steps to climb to the Fortress!
Beautiful views of the Saxon villages below which appear the same as in the Middle Ages!
The one bed for the couple willing to get a divorce- must live together for 2 weeks first. Saxon version of mediation!
View from the town square looking up to castle in Biertan.

More on the other 3 castles tomorrow. Time for bed now!

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