Thursday, September 24, 2015

From Brasov With Love!


Legend has it the Pied Piper re emerged from Hamelin in Brasov, and I would agree that there is something whimsically enchanting about the city.  Fairy-tale turrets and cobblestone streets, together with their very own "Hollywood"-style sign of Brasov dramatically displayed above Mt. Tampa, this city was a treat and so worth visiting.
Established on an ancient Dacian site in the 13c Teutonic Knights, Brasov became a German mercantile colony named Konstadt. The Saxons (Germans) built ornate churches, (like the Black Church), and townhouses, all protected by a massive wall, still intact today. The Romainians lived in Schei, just outside the walls, and today you can pass through these walls by foot, visiting both cities. We did all this on the Free Walking tour that we took when we arrived in town. Even though it started off sunny, 1/2 way through the tour, it downpoured. So for about 2 hours, we walked in the rain. The climax of the tour, was a climb up to the White Tower to see a full panoramic view of Brasov and the sign, which was sadly barely visible in th fog and rain. We returned the next day in the sun.
Our final day in Brasov included a hike up Mt. Tampa. The original plan was to take the Telefonica (lift) up to almost the top, and then hike an additional 30" to the Brasov sign. Unfortunately (and for no apparent reason) the Telefonica was not open on Tues. Normally, it is closed on Mondays (which it was when we arrived), but no explanation about the Tuesday closing. This is when it reminded me that we were in Romainian, yes an Eastern Soviet Bloc country for 40 years, and old mentalities die hard. I actually think the reason was that Autumn began on Sept 20th (Sunday), and perhaps they moved off of the summer schedule, but no need to inform the tourists! Regardless, we had this lofty idea to climb the entire way to the top. Well about 1 hour into our hike, about 3 miles up, and still were not at the top of the Telefonica, we decided to recalulate our route. We had already climbed about 14 switchbacks and would have to repeat that on the way down! So, we decended, then climbed up to to the White Tower, then had lunch before catching our train to Bucharest. All in, my Fitbit told me I did 19,817 steps (8.6 miles) and broke my record of 100 FLIGHTS of steps-Whoo Hoo!

Now getting to the significance of my title: To Brasov With Love
Between1950 and 1960, when Romania still considered itself Moscow's buddy, Brasov was named "Orasul Brasov" with Stalin's name emblazoned into the side of Mt Tampa with a design of artistic deforestation. Sadly, this was befitting of the city, where Stalin forced thousands of rural workers from the countryside to come to Brasov to complete the industrialization of the city. After 1989, when the last dictator was finally dethroned, Brasov is still attempting a rivival. However, they have managed to regrow the trees so STALIN's name is no longer visible!

Main Square
Ahh, a great cappuccino before our walking tour!


Another view of the town square/ looks like a cross between Saltzburg and Vienna. Check out the clouds coming our way!!

View of the Black Church (not even black!) but duely named after surviving the fire of 1689. It is the largest Gothic Chuech between Vienna and Istanbul.

The adorable restaurant of the Casa Albert where we also stayed.


The original walls of the city!

Wall to enter Brasov. Four small turrets around the corners and one large one in the middle signified that the town used Captial punishment for crimes. Thank you Vlad Tepes!

The hike about 3/4 the way up!

The Jewish Temple of Brasov-only 275 Jews left in the town from a height of approx 300,000 in 1940!

The White Tower-we climes up here twice!! Once in the rain and once in the sun!

The Brasov version of Hollywood behind us.

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